Living as an Expat in Guadalajara, Mexico
Information & advice for international families & citizens looking to live in Mexico’s Second City
This post serves to guide individuals and families considering or planning to move to Guadalajara, Mexico. We briefly cover the city’s history, culture, economy, and weather and then delve into specific good-to-know and how-to information outlining the logistics of living here. We have numerous other articles focused on aspects of life in Guadalajara including restaurants, attractions, playgrounds, and day trip options - please refer to our Post Directory for those. We hope you find this post helpful, no matter where you are in the consideration/planning process!
Please let us know if there are corrections or helpful additions we could make via the Comments at the end!
A Little About Guadalajara
Guadalajara (GDL for short) is the second largest city in Mexico and capital of the State of Jalisco, considered “the heartland” of quintessential Mexican culture and the birthplace of both Mariachi music and tequila. About 360 miles west of Mexico city and at an altitude of over 5,000 feet, the city has an incredible climate - the vast majority of days are 70°F and sunny (average low is 54°F; average high 81°F), allowing for outdoor living and activities year round. There are functionally 2 seasons - rainy season in the summer months (June-September) when thunderstorms hit in the late afternoon and evenings; and dry season (Feb-May) is often dry and dusty (which can aggravate allergies).
Like most of Mexico, Guadalajara has a fascinating and diverse history. Jalisco was occupied by several indigenous groups before the Spanish conquest in 1522. Under colonial rule, Guadalajara grew from a missionary outpost to the architectural and cultural center it is today. Unlike many colonial cities, GDL underwent major reconstruction in the 1950s to install wide avenues, underground tunnels and parking lots - as such, traffic is never very bad and the roads are beautiful and tree-lined. Fortunately, the most beautiful old buildings were left intact. In recent years, Jalisco has pivoted from an agriculture-based economy to one booming with foreign investment and technology manufacturing - GDL is sometimes referred to as Mexico’s Silicon Valley. The city continues to grow with a diverse mix of small family businesses and large corporations. The airport is well connected and growing, convenient to the city, well-run, and with modern amenities. Guadalajara is covered in stunning tropical trees and plants and has over 150 beautiful fountains, proudly blending a historic past with modern development and natural beauty. The city is filled with life and character, with more cultural events than one could hope for, and incredibly kind and welcoming people - people from Guadalajara are known as Tapatios (men & mixed groups) and Tapatias (women).
Language: Some Spanish Necessary
Spanish is the local language. It is necessary to either speak it to some degree or have a Spanish speaker amongst your family or local connections to get by. GDL is not like some other large international cities (e.g., those in Europe, or even Mexico City) where you can get by with English or another language - the vast majority of locals do not speak English or any language other than Spanish. While much can be accomplished via smiles, pointing, and hand gestures (Mum would know!), you will need to use Spanish to accomplish many tasks for living here such as banking, contract negotiations, internet installations, etc. If you’re thinking or planning to move to GDL, start learning Spanish on the Duolingo app immediately. Download the Google Translate app to help with immediate needs as you build your Spanish. There are many locals offering Spanish lessons for English speakers both online and in person in the city and we recommend enrolling - some good options are UAG, ICI, and VLC.
BUT! Do not let Spanish be the reason you do not move here; just know that learning it is not optional (and will happen naturally as you live here!). Mum arrived here with zero Spanish and has been learning as we go; the kids likewise knew no Spanish and have picked it up quickly from their classmates at their bilingual school. We feel it is also important to show your respect for other cultures by trying to speak their language - and Mum can attest that Tapatios are unwaveringly kind and helpful, trying to figure out what you need no matter how terrible your Spanish. Mum starts every interaction with a smile and “Lo siento, mi Español es terrible…” (Sorry, my Spanish is terrible) - saying this at the outset sets the tone for the interaction: they know to speak slowly and simply to you rather than rattling off fluent Spanish and only then discovering that you cannot understand. Do not worry one bit about looking silly or feel embarrassed - ego is the enemy and as long as you get what you need, you have succeeded in communicating! You will also find that locals who do know some English enjoy the opportunity to practice their English - complimenting their efforts is always appreciated!
Money Matters: Payment & Banking
Mexico’s currency is the peso, denoted by “the dollar sign” (it was actually the peso sign first!). The exchange rate changes often but is generally in the MXN $18-20 range for USD$1.
Local banking: To have a local bank account (and to make any large purchases such as cars) you must have legal residency status (e.g., a residency visa with the Mexican government) and then get a CURP, essentially a unique ID number similar to the US’ social security number. Many businesses accept payment by “transfer” between local bank accounts because they have no or very low fees (compared to cards).
Cards & ATMs: Within the city, many established businesses accept Mastercards or Visa cards (tarjetas) - Discover is not accepted, and American Express rarely so. Have at least 2 cards from different institutions (to overcome connectivity issues and/or fraud alerts) and ensure they do not charge foreign transaction fees. You can withdraw money from your international debit accounts at trusted local ATMs (Inbursa, Banregio, Bannorte, Scotiabank & Citibanamex charge low fees; avoid BBVA’s high fees). When paying with a card, do not let it out of your sight - restaurants will bring a mobile credit card machine (terminal) to your table.
Cash: Many businesses, especially small ones, and all parking lots require cash - you should never be without it (but for safety do not carry more than you need). Note: ATMs often dispense MX$500 and $1000 bills but a large proportion of businesses do not accept them. Parking machines generally will not accept bills higher than MXN$100. So: safeguard your coins and lower value bills, and break your $500s/$1000s whenever you can. Many parking lots now use the Parco app - download and set this up ASAP.
Mobile Money (e.g., Apple Wallet) is now widely accepted at many places in the city (but still not all so our recommendation to keep some reasonable amount of cash (~MXN $500) on you at all times stands.
Getting Around: Transportation Options
Uber is highly regulated, safe and recommended. Note that, for the airport specifically, Ubers are not allowed to pull up any closer than the flag pole out front and to the left of the airport terminal - this is where you will be dropped off and where you need to go to be picked up.
Taxis: “Sitio” taxis (those caught at established taxi stands, and which are usually yellow) are generally safe and reliable. “Libre” (free) taxis are not recommended, even though they are often more convenient or affordable. We suggest you agree on a fare price with the cab driver before you depart. You can ask them to turn the meter on, but there is a risk they will not take the shortest possible route. Taxis cost more at night or when you have to head outside the main beltway highway (the Periferico), including trips to the airport.
Driving in Mexico is on the right side of the road, with the driver’s seat on the left-hand side (the same as the US) and absolutely manageable. Here are our top pointers:
Speed limits are in kilometers and gas prices are in liters (~4 liters = 1 gallon).
You will find that unlike many places in the world, traffic tends to flow steadily but at a slower speed through most of the city (think ~40-60 kms/hour, or 25-40 miles/hour). We recommend you drive at this speed except on the beltway - it allows you to react in time to unexpected situations (pedestrians, motorcycles, bicycles, potholes, city bus drivers…).
Avoid driving in the right-most (slow) lane on any road if you can - this is where the drainage grates are and their covers are sometimes missing, and it is also widely acceptable to just park in the right-most lane … we don’t know why. Stay in the middle lane or to the left and you avoid hassle.
Guadalajara loves its speedbumps (topes). Some are very high and most are unmarked. If you’re shopping for a car, a higher clearance option like an SUV will save you a lot of scraping. You can also take your car to a shop to have it lifted a few inches, making a big difference.
Drivers do run intersections and red lights with some regularity - if you’re the front of the line, we recommend waiting 1-2 seconds after your light turns green and checking again before you hit the gas.
Given the above, we try to avoid being at the front of a group of cars - it can be very helpful to see how other cars manage the road ahead of you (such as slowing for a speedbump you didn’t see, or dodging a pothole).
Local drivers use their hazard lights with frequency, often to indicate traffic is slow. The police drive everywhere with their lights on - its their siren that indicates they mean business.
Many times, a driver or their passengers will stick an arm out of a window to indicate they are or would like to merge in front of you. Using your indicator on a highway is often interpreted as telling others to pass you, not that you will be changing lanes.
The “after you” gesture from a driver to go ahead (as another driver or pedestrian) or to say thank you is to face the back of their hand to you (almost like a salute), not the palm of their hand as in America and other western countries.
The Mexican Government requires third party liability insurance for personal vehicles. Some options include: AXA Seguros, HDI Seguros, El Aguila, MAPFRE, GNP Seguros, and ABA Seguros.
We do not recommend driving a black car - especially not a black SUV and especially not with tinted windows - these are the vehicles used by cartel members and you don’t want to run the risk of being caught in a mix up.
Biking: There are bike lanes throughout much of the city, especially in the downtown Centro area. There are also many gaps/holes in the interconnectedness of bike-friendly roads, where biking is distinctly unsafe. While GDL’s bike-friendliness far surpasses those in most countries, it is also not Copenhagen or Amsterdam - we recommend only serious bikers commute regularly this way.
Walking around is safe in many areas during the day - but be cognizant of the area. Unless it’s a vibrant downtown area with a lot of people out and about (such as Centro during a holiday celebration), we don’t recommend walking around at night. When crossing roads, always assume cars will not stop for you. Do watch your step on sideways as many are uneven, upended by tree roots, or potholed - mind the gap!
Train: Lastly, there is a light-rail train system (metro/subway) called MiTren run by SITEUR throughout much of the city which is well-used and looks to be well maintained. We have never used it and so can’t speak on its safety or reliability. Similarly, there are city buses that connect to much of the train network and have stations throughout the city and around the beltway. These buses are the predominant mode of transport for most of the population - lines are long and busses are packed. The city bus drivers are easily the most aggressive drivers on the road here. As such, we have never used them and don’t recommend it.
Good Eats: Food & Water Safety
Guadalajara has thousands of restaurants ranging from street food stands to world-class restaurants (e.g., one GDL bar just made the Global Top 50 list this year). There are literally endless options, and often it seems easier AND more affordable to just eat street tacos than buying and cooking your own foods. Similarly, there is a great variety of grocery store options from corner shops (abarrotes) and speciality stores (butcheries, bakeries) to recognizable chains (Walmart, Cost-Co, Sams Club) to high-end grocery stores (City Market, Fresko).
Tap water in Guadalajara is not potable - the locals do not drink it. Many homes buy 5 gallon water jugs or have them delivered. We use a Berkey walker filter in our home, and others have reverse osmosis filtration systems installed. Depending on your sensitivity, you may want to peel or decontaminate your fruits and veggies (e.g., by soaking them in a diluted bleach solutions for 10 minutes and air dry at least 4 hours). Otherwise, use the same common sense with food & drink you’d use travelling anywhere: eat well cooked and hot foods (especially if from a street vendor), ensure protective seals are intact before consumption, avoid ice cubes unless you are confident they were made with clean water, etc.
Lastly, with GDL’s high altitude (over 5,000 ft) and dry air, you are at higher dehydration risk here - expect to feel thirsty ALL. THE. TIME when you first move here, and get used to drinking water often. Cooking and baking are different at high altitude - steaming and boiling foods takes longer, food dries out quicker, meat cooks slower (we recommend a meat thermometer), and yeasted baked goods rise fast and then collapse - you will need to adjust recipes accordingly. There are many online resources for high altitude cooking and baking; here are a few: USDA | High Altitude Bakes | Better Home & Gardens.
Local Cultural Norms
Mexican culture is vibrant, welcoming, and yet also conservative in many ways. Some of our main pointers:
Entrepreneurialism: The Mexican Constitution protects Mexicans’ rights to make a living, supporting a very entrepreneurial culture and a lot of “hussle” that you won’t see in more regulated economies.
Catholicism: Mexico has the largest Catholic population in the world. Many cultural events are organized around the Catholic calendar. We have never run into any issues related to being non-religious ourselves. Church life is important to most Mexicans, and it is how they donate to their communities. Generally, do not expect businesses to be open on Sunday mornings. On the other hand, Sunday mornings when most people are in church are a great time to visit otherwise busy spots.
Dress code: Mexico is more formal than the US. Casual dress here includes skirts, dresses, and long pants for women, and long pants and jackets for men. Makeup is widely worn by women for almost every occasion. Hair is carefully set, often with gel for men/boys. Shorts are not generally considered acceptable other than for sports events, nor are sneakers for restaurants or shopping centers. Younger people (teens to 25ish) are more relaxed in their dress.
Meals: Mexicans eat meals later and for longer than Americans. Lunch is between 2 & 3PM and dinner is between 8 & 9PM. Because meals are generally drawn out social events, remember to ask for the check (la cuenta) - your server will not bring it to you unless you request it (this is considered rude). Before tasting your drink, Mexicans wait for all to be served and then raise their glasses and jointly say “Salud!” (health). When dining in private or public (or just being near a restaurant without eating!), others will say “Provecho!” (meaning “enjoy your meal, similar to “bon appetite” in French).
Tipping: We over-tip (having been restaurant servers ourselves) but the norms are 10% in regular restaurants and beauty salons, 15-20% in fancy restaurants, and MXN$5-10 for grocery baggers, parking attendants, gas attendants, and hotel porters.
Children are universally adored in Mexico, truly. Indeed, the motto of Zapopan (a huge segment of GDL) is “City of the Girls and Boys”. Unlike in many other cultures, they are given a ton of leeway to “be kids” without strict behavioral expectations. Children are welcome at pretty much any event and “bed time” isn’t really a widespread parenting practice - we’ve been to numerous parties where the kids are up until they literally fall asleep wherever they are and are carried to their beds.
Greetings: Manners are very important to Mexicans. When attending a social event, you should say hello and introduce yourself to everyone before you begin talking with one particular person. You should always ask after someone’s family. When departing, again you should make the rounds and tell everyone goodbye/night before you leave. Handshakes are the bare minimum greeting and farewell on any occasion for women and men - even if you have only spoken to a person for a few seconds. “Air kissing” (touching cheeks) is normal between women both in first introductions and subsequent greetings - in reality, this is carefully touching your cheek to theirs while taking great care not to mess up their make-up (or yours!). “Abrazos” are exchanged between men who are close friends - these are hugs with 2 sharp thumps on the back.
Personal space: While Americans and many westerners stand about 2 feet from one another when talking, for Mexicans this is too far and feels unfriendly, and as if they have to shout at you. They will step forward or lean in trying to get to a spacing that feels right to them.
Punctuality: Mexicans’ perception of time is much more generous than Americans - everything starts late and goes late. A party said to start at 7:30PM probably won’t actually start until 9 or 9:30PM. We showed up for a friend’s granddaughter’s Christening when it “started” at 4PM and nothing was set up at all; the other guests started arriving at 6PM and stayed until 3AM.
Gracias means thank you but it also means “no, thank you”: if you are offered something and you say "Gracias!”, more than likely they will walk away or not give it to you. Say “Si, por favor” (Yes, thank you!) to be clear.
Electricity & Connectivity
Electric service in Guadalajara is the same as in the US: 110 volt, 60-cycle, alternating current (AC). The device plugs and outlets are the same as US as well (types A & B). Power is relatively stable, though there are occasional spikes and power outages. We recommend using surge protectors to protect TVs, computers, or other expensive electronics.
Internet: We recommend either Izzi or TotalPlay. We do not recommend TelMex and have no experience with a 4th company, Axtel. Mum works from Starbucks if we have internet issues.
Cable & Satellite TV: the main cable companies are Izzi, Axtel, MegaCable & TotalPlay. You can get a mini-satellite via Sky Cable. Note: we don’t use cable; we use streaming services (Netflix, HBO Max, Disney Plus, Prime Video) via our Apple TV and NordVPN VPN app (to generate an IP address that seems to be in the US so we can receive US shows).
Cell Service Providers: The main providers are Telcel, AT&T, and Movistar. As far as we know AT&T is the only one with which you can set up an annual contract; the others use a “pay as go” model for minutes, messages, and data which we found too burdensome - AT&T for the win!
Note for Cable/Satellite TV and Internet: installation can take up to 3 weeks and be a real pain (especially if you don’t speak Spanish or have someone in your life who does that you can rely on to facilitate the installation process - e.g., a close friend, apartment/community manager, or nanny).
Hiring Help & Supporting the Local Economy
In line with the hardworking and entrepreneurial culture, there is someone willing to do practically any job that needs doing here, from gardening and nannying to washing your car, walking your dogs, or driving your kids to and from school. Our nanny has been a linchpin in our lives here - she coordinates everything we need with others at the home and for our children (e.g., drivers, contractors) and also ensures we are paying fair prices (not gringo prices). We highly recommend hiring help not only to make your own lives easier but to support the local economy and improve your connection to local people and culture (and your Spanish!).
For frame of reference, we pay our nanny MXN $700 per 6 hour day - she keeps our home spotless and takes care of our kids when they’re out of school. We pay our gardener MXN $400 per visit (about monthly) - our yard is pretty small (typical in GDL). Note: as with Tipping, we pay more than the local norms for these services because we want to; some nannies are paid as little as $400/day. Before hiring someone, check several references and start out on a 30-day trial basis. Be careful to comply with Mexican labor law (e.g., 13th month bonus, severance, etc.) - we’ve found this page very helpful.
Safety: Understanding Crime in GDL
GDL hosts hundreds of thousands of American and other international tourists and retirees yearly, and the vast majority have no security incidents. As with any big city, street crime does occur. Cartels are a reality of life in Mexico, and GDL does have gradually increasing levels of cartel/organized crime activity but is still in a better place than much of the country in this regard. Cartel violence here is almost always cartel-on-law enforcement or cartel-on-cartel (with targeted assassinations the most typical form) - for better or worse, CJNG is the dominant cartel here so cartel-on-cartel disputes and related violence aren’t as pervasive as in other places. The police and national guard have a big presence in the city - do not be surprised to regularly see their convoys. “Express kidnappings” do happen (but far less than in other states), almost always at night - criminals drive the captured around to ATMs maxing out their withdrawals for 24-48 hours. In general, use common sense and take security seriously, but also do not think you will live in daily fear here. We strongly advise you check and heed the US State Department’s travel advisory for Mexico for current and evolving analysis (but also know that currently crime rates largely reflect cartel member violence).
Our top safety & security advice:
Do not involve yourself with cartels and they will almost certainly not impact you. They seek to run and profit from their illicit businesses, not to hassle civilians.
Do not do anything here that is illegal in the US, especially not selling or buying drugs or engaging with prostitution (which is legal in Mexico).
Live in the nice areas of town. As counter-intuitive as it sounds, you want to live where the cartel bosses live - the cartels ensure these areas are safe for their families. Most of the good areas are in the northwest section of the city: Providencia, Chapalita, Valle Real, and the Zapopan Centro area. We don’t recommend living in Tlaquepaque or Tonala (although visiting these artisan hubs by day is definitely recommended).
Use common sense: Be aware of your surroundings. Keep a low profile: do as the locals do so to minimize your recognizability as a foreigner (refer to the Local Cultural Norms section above, particularly about dress code). Project confidence: know (or make it seem like you know) where you are going and what you are doing; avoid ending up in places you do not belong. Travel in pairs and groups anywhere new to you, and/or keep to the tourist areas. Don’t wear expensive jewelry or conspicuous luxury brands, drive a fancy car, or be showy with cash. Wear cross-body bags/purses, and when driving put your bag & packages on the floor, under a seat, or in the trunk. Trust your instincts: if something doesn’t look right, stop and turn around. If you are ever being followed or harassed, head to the closest police station, hotel, or other public facility; don’t bother about parking properly and get inside as fast as possible; but most importantly: do not lead them back to your home or confront them. In the unlikely event you become a robbery or mugging victim, do not resist and give the attacker what they demand. [As an aside, we have not been victims of theft, robbery, mugging, or harassment living here.]
Avoid driving at night: be home by 9PM unless you have a very good reason to be out. Absolutely do not be on the roads between 11PM and 5AM - this is when the vast majority of crime and cartel activity happens. Outside of Guadalajara, do not drive after sunset (even/especially on the highways) - and plan your trips to ensure this! Most hotels in Jalisco are secure - stay with brand names you recognize (e.g., Marriott) if unsure.
Use toll roads (cuotas) whenever possible when driving between cities.
Always have your phone and a means to charge it (e.g., charger, battery block) with you.
Do not assume all police are entirely trustworthy. Try to avoid being in a situation where you engage with them - follow the law, drive carefully. If you do engage with them, be courteous and comply with reasonable asks such as showing your license & insurance but not giving it to them (have photocopies of your ID with you to hand them). If you run into unreasonable asks (e.g., bribes), sometimes saying you don’t understand their asks/speak Spanish well can get you a pass. Call your country’s embassy/consulate for help with the police if you need it. [For what its worth, we have interacted with the police on 4 occasions & all went smoothly - they were courteous and helpful.]
Helpful Apps & Online Resources
We highly recommend the following Apps for life in GDL:
WhatsApp: messaging and calling platform heavily used in GDL for everything from school communications to doctors appointments. Also note you can install WhatsApp on your PC.
Google Translate translates typed, spoken, or pictured words. You can have someone speak Spanish into it and translate; you can speak into it and have it speak out loud in Spanish for you. You can take pictures of menus/signs and almost instantly get a version in your language. We highly recommend downloading the Spanish dictionary to your phone within the app so you don’t even need an internet connection for it to work.
Duolingo: gamified free Spanish-learning platform. You can also access Duolingo in a web browser on your PC. See our Educational Apps post for more Spanish learning app options for kids.
(For Americans) US Dollar to Mexican Peso updates for the exchange rate daily; the exchange rate fluctuates quite a lot and so if you earn or hold your money in dollars, its important to keep track.
Unit Converter easily converts volume, length, speed, clothing, temperature, etc.
Waze is the navigation app most widely used in GDL and is thus the most reliable in terms of guiding you around traffic issues.
Uber is the main ridesharing app used in GDL.
Rappi for food delivery and general errand runners. Uber Eats also functions in the city for food delivery, but Rappi’s selection and prices are much better.
Cornershop for grocery pick up.
Other helpful online resources for life in GDL:
Facebook Groups: WHW Guadalajara (for foreign and well-traveled Mexican women in GDL); MEXPAT Guadalajara (events/meet ups for foreigners in and around GDL), Guadalajara Moms (discussions around and buy/sell/trade for foreign moms in GDL). Also try searching for a particular community that suits you (e.g., cyclists in Guadalajara, Indians in Guadalajara, etc.
This Week In Guadalajara: a one-stop-shop website for current and upcoming events.
Mexico News Daily: English online periodical if you’re interested in following the news.
Don’t miss our numerous other Guadalajara-focused articles including:
Bilingual school options for international kids in GDL
Great things to see and do with kids in GDL
Family-friendly restaurants in GDL
Extracurricular activities for kids in GDL
Day trips an hour or so outside the city